Sweet Fried Custard (Crema Fritta)

Crema Fritta, also known as Cremini, are a delicious sweet treat made of thick deep fried custard, shaped into diamonds (or sometimes squares), and are typical in the Veneto, Le Marche and Emilia-Romagna regions of Italy. With their crunchy outer coating and velvety sweet center, it’s no wonder why they are so popular! In the Veneto region, they are served as a sweet dessert or street food, while in Le Marche and Emilia-Romagna they are more commonly served as part of a savory appetizer platter called fritto misto and served alongside savory fried olives, and other vegetables.

Crema Fritta are traditional fare during Carnivale, late February to early March, ending just before Ash Wednesday when the Lenten season begins for Catholics, but in my family, my Nonna served these as dessert after our Epiphany dinner celebration. We only had them once a year, which made them special, but even moreso because she would turn off the lights, douse them in rum and flambé them at the table! If you know how to flambé, or want to learn, instructions are included in the recipe below. It makes for a very impressive presentation and the hint of brandy (or rum) left behind adds a rich spicy note, perfect for the holidays!

Now, back to the recipe, it took me quite a bit of practice to get this recipe right. The key is that the custard needs to have a very thick consistency so that you can slice it into the characteristic diamond shape before dredging and coating it in breadcrumbs. While the traditional recipe does not call for corn starch, many modern day recipes do because it helps to thicken the custard, reducing the amount of flour needed, resulting in a lighter, smoother custard that holds its shape when handling.

Tips:

• This recipe is sized to fit a quarter sheet pan, about 5″ x 9″ and will yield about 12 diamond shaped crema fritta; if you double the recipe, use a half sheet pan, about 9″ x 12″ and it will yield about 28 diamonds (plus the irregularly shaped trimmings)
• When making the custard, be sure to whisk the mixture over the heat for the full 3-5 minutes so it firms up properly before transferring it to the sheet pan to chill, otherwise you will not be able to slice and handle it easily.

To begin, line a quarter sheet baking pan (5″ x 9″) with parchment paper and set aside.

Then, prepare the custard. Add the milk and lemon zest to a small saucepan and heat over low heat.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture is smooth and pale yellow. Sift the flour and cornstarch into the egg mixture. Add a ladleful of warm milk to loosen it and whisk until smooth and homogenous. Then, pour the mixture into the remaining warm milk, whisking continuously until the custard thickens, about 3-5 minutes. The custard should be very thick.

Spread the custard evenly into the prepared sheet pan. Allow the custard to cool completely, about 3-4 hours, uncovered at room temperature, or chill it in the refrigerator.

Once the custard is set, lift the it from the baking pan, turn the slab out onto a smooth work surface, carefully peeling away the parchment paper. To cut the custard into the characteristic diamond shape, slice the custard in horizontal lines spaced 1 1/2″ apart, then cut a series of parallel diagonal lines across the entire slab at a 60° angle. For smoother cuts, use a knife dipped in warm water, wiping the blade clean between each cut. The edges and corners will be irregularly shaped, if you do not want to serve them on a platter, they make a perfect treat for the cook!

In a heavy bottomed fry pan or deep fryer, add oil to a depth of at least 2″, and heat to 350°F.

Set up a breading station using three shallow bowls. Add the flour to one bowl, lightly beat the eggs in the second bowl, and add the breadcrubs to the third bowl. Dredge each diamond in flour, then dip in the egg mixture and then coat in breadcrumbs. Repeat this process until all of the custard is breaded.

Working in batches, fry the custard until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove the custard with a slotted spoon and allow them to drain on a cooling rack or on paper towels while you fry the rest.

Then, arrange them on a platter and dust with powdered sugar or, for a dramatic presentation, sprinkle room temperature brandy or rum over the top and light them on fire, turn down the lights and watch them come to life! See tips below to flambé safely:

• Use an 80 proof liquor or 40% alcohol by volume (rum or brandy suggested). Beer, champagne and wine will not work because the alcohol content is not high enough, while liquors above 120 proof would be dangerous.
• Heat the brandy or rum in a saucepan or microwave in a microwave safe container before igniting. Do not bring it to a boil or you will burn the alcohol off, but heat it until you can see bubbles around the edges.
• Arrange the crema fritta in a flambe pan, or skillet with a long handle. Splash about 1/4 cup of liquor over the top and using a long match, ignite the fumes at the edge of the pan (not the liquid itself).
• Precautions: be careful not to lean over the dish as you light it on fire, never pour liquor from a bottle into a pan that is near an open flame because the flame can follow the stream of alcohol into the bottle and cause it to explode.
• Keep a pot lid or fire extinguisher within reach, just in case you need it!

Buon Appetito!